{"id":3065,"date":"2024-06-20T13:21:28","date_gmt":"2024-06-20T11:21:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mc-faustvrancic.com\/?p=3065"},"modified":"2024-06-20T14:20:36","modified_gmt":"2024-06-20T12:20:36","slug":"sto-se-jelo-na-prvicu-u-faustovo-vrijeme-1-dio","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mc-faustvrancic.com\/en\/2024\/06\/20\/sto-se-jelo-na-prvicu-u-faustovo-vrijeme-1-dio\/","title":{"rendered":"\u0160to se jelo na Prvi\u0107u u Faustovo vrijeme? – 1. dio"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Sa\u017eetak predavanja Zlatke Rodin povodom 24. EMA-e na temu (PRE)HRANE odr\u017eanog u MC \u201eFaust Vran\u010di\u0107\u201c, 11. svibnja 2019.<\/em><\/p>

Memorijalni centar \u201eFaust Vran\u010di\u0107\u201c svake godine sudjeluje u EMA-i (Edukativna muzejska akcija Hrvatskog muzejskog dru\u0161tva) \u2013 nekad radionicama, nekad predavanjima. Ove godine zadana tema manifestacije \u2013 (PRE)HRANA \u2013 stavila nas je pred novi izazov \u2013 vrlo opse\u017eno podru\u010dje povezati s temom na\u0161eg Centra, ali i sa samim otokom Prvi\u0107em; istra\u017eiti i interpretirati \u0161to se jelo na otoku Prvi\u0107u u Faustovo vrijeme.<\/p>

Budu\u0107i da za razliku od, primjerice, Zrinskih, Vran\u010di\u0107i kao i niti jedna druga dalmatinska plemi\u0107ka obitelj nemaju tako detaljne zapise o poljoprivredi, vo\u0107arstvu, sto\u010darstvu, transportu i konzerviranju hrane, niti sa\u010duvane obiteljske kuharice \u2013 trebalo se domisliti kako rekonstruirati plemi\u0107ki i pu\u010dki stol toga vremena. Literature na tu temu, bar \u0161to se ti\u010de podru\u010dja Dalmacije, ba\u0161 i nema u izobilju, tako da je trebalo krenuti od osnovnih spoznaja o renesansnoj i novovjekovnoj kuhinji te u ono vrijeme dostupnim namirnicama.<\/p>

Do Kolumbovog otkri\u0107a Amerike 1492., koje je ozna\u010dilo po\u010detak Novog vijeka, mnoge namirnice nisu bile poznate u Europi, a za ve\u0107inu njih trebalo je pro\u0107i podosta vremena da iz kolekcija europskih botani\u010dara na\u0111u put do svakodnevne primjene na stolu. Uglavnom, ve\u0107inu s tog popisa u startu mo\u017eemo eliminirati i staviti sa strane jo\u0161 koje stolje\u0107e te se posvetiti onome \u0161to se u Dalmaciji jelo od davnina.<\/p>

Na kraju srednjeg vijeka Crkva je ozna\u010dila 210 dana u godini kad se smjelo jesti meso, a 150 dana u godini bili su propisani dani posta tj. nemrsa. Naravno da su plemi\u0107i, i kad je o ribi i o mesu rije\u010d, dobivali bolje \u201ebokune\u201c. Znanstveni radovi na temu prehrane kroz povijest ka\u017eu da su siroma\u0161niji uglavnom konzumirali konzervirano, usoljeno i dimljeno meso te iznutrice. Teletina, divlja\u010d i perad kao \u0161to su guske, fazani, te najomiljenija renesansna ptica kopun (u\u0161kopljeni pijetao koji se uzgajao samo zbog mesa) bile su namijenjene bogatima, dok su svinjetina i govedina bile prikladne i za selja\u010dke trbuhe. Ovakva hijerarhija namirnica ogledalo je dru\u0161tvene hijerarhije, plemi\u0107i su, dakle, preferirali namirnice udaljenije od zemlje (bli\u017ee nebu), a ono \u0161to je raslo u zemlji ili obitavalo na njenoj povr\u0161ini bilo je prikladnije za siroma\u0161ne. No, razgrani\u010diti pu\u010dki od plemi\u0107kog stola nije uvijek jednostavno jer su tradicionalno skromne namirnice bile jednako drage plemi\u0107ima kao i pu\u010danima \u2013 barem ono \u0161to je \u010dinilo osnovu mediteranske prehrane \u2013 o \u010demu zorno svjedo\u010di i korespondencija obitelji Vran\u010di\u0107.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Renesansni ljetnikovac plemi\u0107ke obitelji Dragani\u0107-Vran\u010di\u0107, Prvi\u0107 \u0160epurine, otok Prvi\u0107<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Pri\u010da o plemi\u0107kom, ali i pu\u010dkom stolu Faustova vremena zapravo je nikad ispri\u010dana pri\u010da o renesansnim ljetnikovcima \u0161ibenske aristokracije na otoku Prvi\u0107u. Postoje mnogi povijesni zapisi koji svjedo\u010de o brojnosti i ra\u0161irenosti takvih zdanja po cijelom otoku te o njegovanju kulture ladanja. Prvi\u0107 \u2013 otok Faustova djetinjstva i odabrano posljednje po\u010divali\u0161te, hranio ga je za studentskih dana u Padovi, o \u010demu nam govore pisma koja su razmjenjivali \u010dlanovi obitelji. Tako Antun Vran\u010di\u0107 svom bratu, Faustovom ocu Mihovilu, pi\u0161u\u0107i o Faustu, 1569. godine nabraja oto\u010dne delicije: \u201cBit \u0107e dobro ako mu i dalje budete slali masline, smokve i srdele, ribe u hladetini i vi\u0161e takvih va\u0161ih primorskih poslastica; on je doista predragi sin. Ali za\u0161to za mene, Va\u0161eg brata i dobro\u010dinitelja, ve\u0107 toliko mnogo godina iz va\u0161eg mora i prekrasnih polja i otoka nema ni\u010dega \u2013 to bih volio da mi ka\u017eete!\u201c<\/p>

Ribu su na stolove plemi\u0107a dopremali lokalni ribari, a masline i smokve ubirali te\u017eaci \u2013 stalni \u017eitelji otoka u slu\u017ebi oto\u010dkih gospodara. Maslina, smokva i srdela \u2013 sveto trojstvo hraniteljic\u00e2 Dalmacije, bile su, sude\u0107i po ovakvim pismima, jednako drage pripadnicima svih slojeva.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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No, sljede\u0107e pismo unosi nam u pri\u010du mnogo luksuzniju namirnicu. U velja\u010di 1564. Mihovil pi\u0161e bratu Antunu u Po\u017eun (dana\u0161nja Bratislava) kako mu \u0161alje sjeme arti\u010doke iz njihova vrta u Prvi\u0107u, za vrt Antunove po\u017eunske pala\u010de. Hedonist i pasionirani vrtlar Antun, \u010dijim je osobnim grbom dominirao rog obilja, zasigurno je bio odu\u0161evljen poklonom. Gotovo da i nema namirnice koja bi bolje mogla prikazati razliku izme\u0111u pu\u010dkog i plemi\u0107kog stola. Njena konzumacija ne puni trbuh ve\u0107 je hedonisti\u010dka i gurmanska, a \u0161ibenski su je plemi\u0107i objeru\u010dke prihvatili nakon \u0161to je preko Firence i Venecije ponovno otkrivena Europi poslije stolje\u0107a zaborava. Iz bilje\u017enica kor\u010dulanskih op\u0107inskih blagajnika 16. i 17. stolje\u0107a vidljivo je da je arti\u010doka bila me\u0111u omiljenijim povr\u0107em u Dalmaciji. Arti\u010doka nam se jo\u0161 jednom pojavljuje kod Vran\u010di\u0107evih, ovaj put u vidu botani\u010dke ilustracije, na naslovnici Govora na pogrebu Fausta Vran\u010di\u0107a Ivana Tomka Mrnavi\u0107a. Vidimo je i na alegoriji Ljeta, oslikanu kistom Giuseppea Arcimbolda, umjetnika koji je u vo\u0107u i povr\u0107u ovjekovje\u010dio Rudolfa II. Habsbur\u0161kog \u2013 cara i kralja kojem je na\u0161 Faust slu\u017eio u Pragu vi\u0161e od dvadeset godina. Arcimboldova djela mo\u017eemo smatrati vrijednim umjetni\u010dkim svjedo\u010danstvima o zastupljenim namirnicama toga vremena.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Ivana Sko\u010di\u0107 i Zlatka Rodin iz MC \"Faust Vran\u010di\u0107\" s obitelji \u0160mit<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Arti\u010doka je bila zvijezda ovoga predavanja, a u istom se tonu nastavilo kada sam govornicu ustupila Mariu \u0160mitu, vlasniku istoimenog OPG-a i imanja Puntarski dvori u Prvi\u0107 \u0160epurini, \u010diji proizvodi pod brandom Natura \u0161koj nose oznaku kvalitete Hrvatski oto\u010dni proizvod \u2013 oznaku koju mogu dobiti samo proizvodi koji su rezultat oto\u010dne tradicije, a koji potje\u010du s ograni\u010denih oto\u010dnih lokaliteta i rade se u malim serijama. Njegov OPG se najve\u0107im dijelom bavi proizvodnjom prirodne kozmetike, dok na svom imanju upravo otvara prezentacijski centar oto\u010dnih proizvoda. Gospodin Mario upoznao je publiku i sa \u0161epurinskom tradicijom proizvodnje kvalitetnih alkoholnih pi\u0107a, \u010dije su putove utabali legendarni Romano Vlahov i Nikola Skroza Makario.<\/p>

\u0160mitovim likerom od prvinske arti\u010doke nazdravili smo prije zakuske u poznatoj prvinskoj gostionici \u201eMareta\u201c gdje je zvijezda predavanja ujedno postala i zvijezda jelovnika, a kako i ne bi u ovo doba godine, u omiljenoj kombinaciji ovoga kraja, s bobom, \u201ebi\u017eima\u201c i koroma\u010dem \u2013 po \u0161ibenski.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Tom je jelu, s osvrtom na povezanost Vran\u010di\u0107evih i arti\u010doke, Veljko Barbieri posvetio jednu od emisija njegova poznatog serijala Jelovnici izgubljenog vremena, kada se i pro\u0161etao do ljetnikovca u \u0160epurinama.<\/p>

\u0160to nam je Faust o (pre)hrani rekao kroz svoje knjige \u2013 mo\u017eete pro\u010ditati u drugom dijelu \u010dlanka.<\/p>

Autor teksta: Zlatka Rodin<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Sa\u017eetak predavanja Zlatke Rodin povodom 24. EMA-e na temu (PRE)HRANE odr\u017eanog u MC \u201eFaust Vran\u010di\u0107\u201c, 11. svibnja 2019. Memorijalni centar \u201eFaust Vran\u010di\u0107\u201c svake godine sudjeluje u EMA-i (Edukativna muzejska akcija Hrvatskog muzejskog dru\u0161tva) \u2013 nekad radionicama, nekad predavanjima. Ove godine zadana tema manifestacije \u2013 (PRE)HRANA \u2013 stavila nas je pred novi izazov \u2013 vrlo opse\u017eno […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3061,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3065","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n\u0160to se jelo na Prvi\u0107u u Faustovo vrijeme? - 1. dio - Memorijalni centar Faust Vran\u010di\u0107<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/mc-faustvrancic.com\/en\/2024\/06\/20\/sto-se-jelo-na-prvicu-u-faustovo-vrijeme-1-dio\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u0160to se jelo na Prvi\u0107u u Faustovo vrijeme? - 1. dio - Memorijalni centar Faust Vran\u010di\u0107\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Sa\u017eetak predavanja Zlatke Rodin povodom 24. EMA-e na temu (PRE)HRANE odr\u017eanog u MC \u201eFaust Vran\u010di\u0107\u201c, 11. svibnja 2019. Memorijalni centar \u201eFaust Vran\u010di\u0107\u201c svake godine sudjeluje u EMA-i (Edukativna muzejska akcija Hrvatskog muzejskog dru\u0161tva) \u2013 nekad radionicama, nekad predavanjima. 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